To The Hundredth Meridian: DAYS 3, 4, 5 FRIDAY AUG. 23 , SATURDAY AUG. 24, SUNDAY AUG. 25, WINNIPEG MB

Is Winnipeg the most "Canadian" city in Canada? This is my fourth visit to the 'Peg, and for Lou it must be something like her 7th visit. We love this city, mainly because we have such good friends who act as our hosts when we visit. Joy and Don are immensely proud of their home town and justifiably so. But the question still stands: maybe the question should be "is there such a thing as a completely 'Canadian' city, or is this just a myth?" Hmmm.....

The thing we like about Winnipeg is that it is a sizeable city with a small town feel. Joy and Don drove us around the city and, while there was much to see, we weren't overwhelmed by size or traffic. It is compact, yet there are several distinct neighbourhoods here. Where Joy and Don live is particularly attractive: it is near one of the rivers, not far from downtown, with the most amazing canopy of mature elm ( that's right, Ontario, I said "elm" ) trees over wonderful older houses that have been maintained with loving care. Character ? Yes, in abundance.

We had a chance to take in a short but informative tour of the soon-to-be opened National Museum of Human Rights. This is an architectural gem, with sweeping curved surfaces that are slightly reminiscent of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain. A huge tower focussed attention, but the eye is drawn to the glass-covered sweep of wing-like curves on the main facade. The significance of the museum is not just in its intended mission as a chronicle of the international struggle for human rights, but also because it is the first national museum outside of Ottawa. There it is again, this drive to be a focus of Canadian identity. Can't escape it, because it is real and palpable.

Winnipeg is, in my humble view, one of the best sports towns in Canada. The Jets are back and the city is absolutely in love with its hockey team. Fair enough, hockey is as Canadian as it gets. But the city is also one of Canada's best football towns too. We drove out to see the new stadium for the Bombers and the University of Manitoba Bisons, Investors Group Field. This is, without a doubt, the gold standard of stadiums for CFL and CIS teams in Canada. It is a complete bowl, with protection over most of the stands, and all the amenities of a modern sports venue. Toronto should try to copy this place. And, if that wasn't enough, the Goldeyes are one of the most successful minor league baseball operations in the country, with a gorgeous small stadium in the centre of the downtown area. How many other cities in Canada can boast modern, first-class facilities like these?

We enjoyed several great dining experiences. The first was a tapas style restaurant which symbolized Winnipeg's multicultural culinary background. The second was in a converted warehouse in a, shall we say, slightly run down neighbourhood on the other side of the river that is trying to reinvent itself. The brunch was aboriginal in nature, but was absolutely delicious, and we applauded the entrepreneurs who are trying to upgrade a formerly "sketchy" area. Don also took me to tour a local craft brewery, the "Half Pints" brewery: must say, the tour began in a promising way when we were presented with a small glass with which to sample the many styles of beer on offer. Man, they were good. Winnipeg may be small in stature compared to other cities, but the taste on offer is big league in every way. We also went to an old familiar, but no less attractive area, the Forks, where eateries and bars and activites abound. And, like back home, a backyard barbeque is perhaps the best culinary treat: Don and Joy treated us to a feast of local food and it was delicious.

We had a chance to look up some new friends of ours: Bill and Sandy Johnston, whom we met on our South American tour 10 months ago. What a great thing to meet nice people in a completely foreign part of the world, and then be able to see them in their home later. We enjoyed a pleasant afternoon at their pool, eating and drinking and recalling our trip. Fantastic.

So, if good food, great people, fantastic sights, diversity and culture up the wazoo are the signs of a great Canadian city, then, I humbly nominate Winnipeg as the definitive example of such a place. Don't forget that the French influence is alive and well in St. Boniface, and the Aboriginal experience is ever present. So, is there such a thing as the "typical" Canadian city? Yes, and it's here in Winnipeg.